Read this before you drive out
The schedule below runs past the Town's written cut-off. That is deliberate and it is not yet settled, so you need to know the exact shape of the problem before you are standing in it.
- 7:00 pmThe Town of Highland Park does not permit photography before 7:30 am or after 7:00 pm, any day of the week. Published policy, hptx.org. It applies at Lakeside and at Flippen equally.
- 7:39 pmSunset in Dallas. Thirty-nine minutes the wrong side of that line, which is the whole reason this is a question at all.
- UnconfirmedCassie is asking the Town whether 7:00 is firm. Until she says otherwise, everything after 7:00 is provisional. If it is firm, the steps and across the water come off and the day ends at the bridge. That is the trade the new order makes: the gazebo is safe, the golden frame is not.
The banks
Set these the night before and shoot one frame on each to confirm they saved. On the day you never turn backwards: C1 for the gazebo and then the canopy, C3 the moment you walk down to the water, C4 only if you are still shooting past 7:39.
Where each one lives
| Bank | Auto ISO | Used at | The problem it solves |
|---|---|---|---|
| C1 OPEN SHADE | AUTO1 | Flippen, the bridge, the steps | Faces in canopy shade against a background two to three stops hotter |
| C3 GOLDEN | AUTO1 | Across the water | Sun low and behind them, in or near the frame |
| C4 LAST LIGHT | AUTO3 | After 7:39, if you are still shooting | Sun gone, the sky is the only lamp |
The three Auto ISO slots
AUTO1 base 500 · max 3200 · min shutter 1/250 base 500 because DR400 needs it AUTO3 base 125 · max 6400 · min shutter 1/60 after the sun, and you hold still for it SHOOTING SETTING > ISO AUTO SETTING. Three slots is all the body has, which is fine: two of the four banks want identical ISO behaviour.
C1 OPEN SHADE · Flippen, the bridge and the steps
Mode A, aperture ring off A you pick the f-number, camera picks the shutter ISO dial on A, AUTO1 camera picks 500 to 3200, never slower than 1/250 Film ASTIA/Soft the gentlest simulation there is for skin WB SHADE, not AUTO auto reads the green off the leaves and greys the skin DR 400% holds two stops of sunlit background out of the clip Tone Highlight -2, Shadow -1 buys back the rest of that gap Colour +1 shade is flat; this puts the green back AF lever S, single point one lock per frame. C is for anything walking Drive S CL only for walking and spinning Light none no LED, no flash. Highland Park bans both
C3 GOLDEN · across the water
ISO dial on A, AUTO1 back to base 500 for DR400 Film CLASSIC CHROME holds the gold without pushing it orange WB DAYLIGHT, not AUTO auto drains the warmth you came for DR 400% the sun is in or near the frame Tone Highlight -1, Shadow -1 Exp +2/3 backlit, -1/3 side-lit meter for their faces, let the background go Filters protection filter off with sun in frame it ghosts. Rubber hood on
C4 LAST LIGHT · after 7:39
ISO dial on A, AUTO3 125 to 6400, and 1/60 is the floor Film ETERNA/Cinema low contrast, which is all blue hour has WB DAYLIGHT keeps the sky blue DR 100% no highlight left to protect, and DR costs shadow noise NR HIGH ISO NR -2 smoothing eats the grain she asked for AF single point, near eye face detect hunts in the dark Lamp AF ILLUMINATOR OFF a red beam in their faces, and useless at this range
Sunset is C3 with two dials moved, not a fifth bank. ISO dial off A to 125, exposure compensation to -2, filters off. Two moves stay in your hands better than a preset you use for fifteen minutes.
Gear and filters
What is in the bag
- X-T5 body. Two card slots. Format both, and set SAVE DATA SET-UP > CARD SLOT SETTING to BACKUP so slot two mirrors slot one. Delete nothing in the field.
- XF 16-80mm f/4 R OIS WR. The lens for almost everything. 72mm thread. Stabilised, which is what makes the one slow-water frame possible without a tripod.
- XF 27mm f/2.8 R WR. One stop faster and tiny. The backup body lens, and the one that saves the day if the 16-80 fails.
- Protection filter. On everywhere except across the water, where the sun is in the frame and it ghosts. That is the one stop it comes off for.
- Mist/PL on a step-up ring. Cuts glare off wet rock and water. Costs about a stop and a half, so it comes off for faces in shade.
- Collapsible rubber hood. For the stops where the sun is in the frame. It only seats with no step-up ring fitted, so hood and Mist/PL are an either-or.
- Spare battery, charged. Two hours of shooting will not need it, which is exactly why it goes in the bag.
Which lens, stop by stop
| Stop | 16-80 f/4 | 27 f/2.8 |
|---|---|---|
| 4 Flippen | Everything | Nothing |
| A stone bridge | Everything | Only if the canopy is darker than it looks |
| 2 the steps | Everything | Nothing |
| 3 across the water | Everything | The afterglow, once the sun is gone |
How far back to stand
Every shot line prints a distance and what it frames. This is the table those numbers came from. Pick the framing you want, read across to the focal length you are on, and walk until the frame matches.
| Focal | Head and shoulders | Waist | Full | Small |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16mm | 0.7 m | 1.1 m | 2.4 m | 5 m |
| 23mm | 1 m | 1.6 m | 3.5 m | 7 m |
| 27mm | 1.2 m | 1.8 m | 4 m | 9 m |
| 35mm | 1.6 m | 2.4 m | 5.5 m | 11 m |
| 50mm | 2.2 m | 3.4 m | 7.5 m | 16 m |
| 80mm | 3.5 m | 5.5 m | 12 m | 25 m |
Waist means both of them from the waist up, and small means them at about a third of the frame height. Held sideways for a vertical, everything gets about a third closer.
The 16-80 stops focusing at 35 cm and the 27 at 34 cm, so anything nearer will not lock. A face at 16mm is a caricature, so for anything head and shoulders zoom in and walk back.
Which filter, and when nothing
| Where | On the 16-80 | Why |
|---|---|---|
| All of Lakeside, faces | Protection only | The Mist/PL costs a stop and a half and does nothing in flat shade |
| Lakeside, water in frame | Mist/PL | Sun is low and due west, near enough down your axis that the polarizer does little. Turn it and look before you trust it |
The LED
No colour temperature is printed here on purpose. The panel has not been identified, so a number would be a guess. Warm it until skin reads like skin against a blue sky, then leave it. That is the setting, whatever your panel calls it.
What not to bring
No flash: a skill rather than a purchase, and it fights the light you came for. No neutral density: the polarizer and the electronic shutter cover it.
You are handheld either way. Past sunset the shutter falls and the brace you actually have is a rail, a knee or the stone, so nothing in the plan turns on the answer.
Pack list, and what they carry
- You. Body, both lenses, both filters, hood, two batteries, both cards formatted, lens cloth, water.
- Them. The flowers, blotting papers, hair ties, more water than they think.
- In the car all day. The flowers and the towel. Highland Park counts a reflector as equipment, so it stays a towel.
Flippen and Lakeside
Sun altitude runs 23 degrees down to nothing, due west the whole time. Shadows go from twice a height to off the end of the frame. That direction is the plan: hide from it at the gazebo, lose it under the canopy, then turn and shoot into it at the water.
Park, brief, walk in
5:45 · sun 23.0° up · azimuth 260° west · shadow 2.4×
Getting there
Flippen Park, 4421 N. Versailles Avenue. Park on Versailles itself, and read the curb before you lock it. Nothing is enforceable there without a sign or a painted line, and the signs are the ones that count.
While you are here
- Sunscreen and bug spray on everyone. There is standing water and the mosquitoes know it.
- They arrive dressed. Changing in a vehicle is not permitted and no restroom is listed at either park.
- Camera out of the cold car now, not at the gazebo, or the first frames fog.
- Say the LED is staying in the car. Out loud, so you do not reach for it later.
Camera
C1 OPEN SHADE in the Q menu · ISO dial to A · focus lever S · drive dial S 16-80 on the body, protection filter on, lens cap in a pocket The 27 and the Mist/PL in one pocket, spare battery and cloth in the other Shoot one frame of the car park and check the histogram. If the bank did not load you want to know now, not in the gazebo.
Flippen Park
6:00 · 19.9° up · 262° west → 6:30 · 13.6° up · 266° west · shadow 2.8× to 4.1×
Getting there
You are already here. White gazebo, a fountain with a reflecting pool, clipped hedges, houses all the way round. Small enough to walk in two minutes, and it runs first because it is the one stop that wants the sun still up.
Where you stand
- Out on the grass for the wide, far enough back that the whole structure is in the picture.
- Then inside the gazebo shooting out, or just outside its shade line with them standing in it.
- For the fountain frame they are on the grass. Nobody sits on the rim; the Town names it specifically.
Camera
C1 OPEN SHADE · AUTO1 · protection filter on all day here Mist/PL on for the fountain if the water is running, off otherwise Electronic level on for the wide. A gazebo with converging verticals reads as a mistake in a way a tree never does.
Shots
- The gazebo, wide
16-80 · 16 to 23mm · f/8 · 8 m back, the whole gazebo in · 1/250 · ISO A, AUTO1 AF S · drive S · level on, verticals straight
Both of you inside it. I'm going right back so the whole thing is in.Photographed close a gazebo is just columns. Photographed whole it is the reason this half looks like a different county. - Against a column
16-80 · 50 to 80mm · f/4 · 4 m back, waist up · 1/250 · ISO A, AUTO1 AF C, face and eye · drive S · under the roof, in that horizontal light
Weight back on one foot, ankle crossed, one hand in a pocket. Straight face first.Angles instead of a hug, one posed and one reaching in. It reads as expensive because it is magazine body language. - Head in a lap, by the fountain
16-80 · 35 to 50mm · f/4 · 4 m back, the pair of them across the frame · 1/250 · ISO A, AUTO1 camera nearly on the grass · AF S on the upturned face
On the grass, not the rim. Head back in her lap, look up rather than at me.This one is outside the gazebo, so check for a leaf shadow on the face and move three feet if you find one.
6:30 to 6:40 · Drive to Lakeside
- One mile south to 4601 Lakeside Drive, about three minutes. You drive it together.
- Street parking on Lakeside Drive, no lot. Read the curb before you lock it.
- The east side is signed no parking from four to six on weekday afternoons. You arrive after that window, which is one of the reasons the gazebo goes first.
- Wheels rolling by 6:38 or the canopy stop gets tight.
- Camera on the seat, cap on, filter left fitted.
The stone bridge
6:40 · 11.6° up · 268° west → 7:00 · 7.4° up · 270° west · shadow 4.9× to 7.7×
Getting there
The short path with an estate fence on one bank and the new boardwalk on the other. Low limestone arch, black rail curved to follow it, cobbled brook running under it into the lake.
Where you stand
- Down at the water on the bank, camera at knee height, shooting up through the branches at the two of them on the arch.
- Second position on the deck at one end, shooting along the arch so its rise and fall is in the frame.
- Standing on the bridge is fine for them. The rail is not, and neither is the brook bed, for them or for you.
Camera
C1 OPEN SHADE · AUTO1 · protection filter on, Mist/PL off This stop moved forty minutes later when the gazebo went first, and it is the darkest place in the park. Expect ISO on the 3200 ceiling and the shutter falling through 1/250 anyway. Let it: she asked for blur and this is where it is honest. Put the 27 on at f/2.8 for anything that holds still. Stand here once before the day and read the real exposure, because every number here is computed. The Mist/PL costs about a stop and a half and does nothing in flat shade. This is the darkest place in the park. Do not spend the light here. Hunt even shade, not deep shade. Under the densest crown, or under the arch itself where the stone blocks the sky and the brook opening lights from the side.
Shots
- From the brook
16-80 · 16 to 23mm · f/5.6 · 7 m back, them small on the arch · shutter A · ISO A, AUTO1 AF S, single point on the near face · drive S · vertical and horizontal
Up on the arch, right in the middle. Keep talking, I'm not shooting yet.Them small, the green doing the work. Shoot it first so everything after has something to be a close-up of. - Walking over
16-80 · 35 to 50mm · f/4 · 10 m closing to 5, full length · shutter dial 500 · ISO A, AUTO1 AF C, wide and tracking, box on the lead face · drive CL · three passes
Walk at me like you're late and it's his fault. Don't stop talking.Nobody can pose a foot mid-stride. The arch gives them a rise and a fall to walk through. - Her hands on his face
16-80 · 70 to 80mm · f/4 · 3 m back, head and shoulders · 1/250 · ISO A, AUTO1 AF C, face and eye on, single point · drive S
Both hands on his jaw. Straight face first, then whatever happens next.She is doing something and he is being done to, which is the reverse of how these usually get shot.
The steps down to the water
7:00 · 7.4° up · 270° west → 7:20 · 3.3° up · 273° west · shadow 7.7× to 17.4×
Getting there
Stone steps down the bank with a wall alongside. Sitting on steps is what steps are for, so this is the easy stop. Seat them low and let the pale stone lift their eyes.
Where you stand
- At the bottom of the flight, shooting up so the stone leads to them.
- Level with them from the side, on the stone.
- You stay on the stone too. No wading anywhere in this park, and that rule is about you as much as them.
Camera
C1 OPEN SHADE · AUTO1 Mist/PL on for anything with the creek surface in frame, off for faces and the ring A polarizer works hardest ninety degrees off the sun, and here the sun is under eight degrees and straight up your axis, so expect much less of it than the noon plan did. Turn it, look, and leave it off if nothing moves. AUTO1 absorbs the stop and a half it costs when you do use it.
Shots
- From the bottom
16-80 · 23 to 35mm · f/5.6 · 4 m back, the flight and both of them · 1/250 · ISO A, AUTO1 AF S, single point · drive S · vertical
One of you two steps above the other. Don't look at me yet.A staircase is a diagonal you do not have to invent. f/5.6 rather than f/4 because they are at different depths. - Sit and lean
16-80 · 70 to 80mm · f/4 · 5 m back, heads to waist · 1/250 · ISO A, AUTO1 AF C, face and eye · drive S · Mist/PL off
Sit two steps up, hips touching. Lean until your head lands. Now stay.Keep their faces on the same plane or one eye goes soft at f/4. - The ring
16-80 · 80mm · f/4 · 40 cm, the hand fills the frame · no closer, the lens stops at 35 · 1/250 single point on the stone, not the knuckle · Mist/PL off
Her hand over his, and keep it loose. A stiff hand is what makes these look like a catalogue.At f/4 and forty centimetres you have millimetres of depth. Focus the stone.
Across the water
7:20 · 3.3° up · 273° west → 7:39 · sunset · 276° west
Getting there
The willow and the big house are both on the far bank and both are somebody's garden. Everything here is shot from this side with the water in between, which is the picture they asked for anyway.
Where you stand
- In the shade line on this bank, with them at the edge of it and their faces turned out toward the open water.
- That is the trick. You cannot carry a reflector here, so the bright opening over the water becomes one. Shoot from inside the shade, chins up and out, camera slightly low so their eyes catch more sky.
- Do not cross. Stay off the bank face and out of the landscape beds.
Camera
C3 GOLDEN · AUTO1 · Mist/PL on for the two wides, off for the twirl Exp comp +1/3 to +2/3 with the bright far bank in frame Then check the histogram, not the screen. If faces look dark in the finder they are dark. Dial up until they are not and let the water go. Keep the sky mostly out of frame above 35mm; a polarizer bands it at the wide end.
Shots
- The willow, from here
16-80 · 35 to 50mm · f/5.6 · 12 m back, them small on the bank · 1/250 · ISO A, AUTO1 Mist/PL on, rotated until the reflection firms up · AF S
Stand right at the edge. You'll be small in this one, that's the point.The reflection gives you the tree twice, which is more than standing under it would. - The house behind you
16-80 · 35 to 50mm · f/8 · 12 m back, them small under the house · 1/250 · ISO A, AUTO1 Mist/PL on · AF S, single point on the near face
Turn a few degrees. Now the house is over your shoulder.f/8 so the house reads. You are far enough away that the depth costs nothing. - The twirl
16-80 · 35 to 50mm · f/4 · 7 m back, full length with room for the hem · shutter dial 1000 · ISO A, AUTO1 AF C, wide and tracking · drive CL · Mist/PL off · frame wide enough for the hemOne hand up, spin her out and back. Keep hold of the hand.You need the stop and a half back for 1/1000. Something has to move here or it is three postcards in a row.
What to say
Two people who do not do this for a living will look like it unless you keep talking. None of this is a script to read. It is what to reach for when the frame is right and their faces have gone wrong.
Before you lift the camera
- Set the terms.I'll take way more frames than a pro would. That's the plan, not a problem.
- Take the fear out.Nobody sees the bad ones. Not you, not the group chat. I delete before you look.
- Buy yourself time.Fix his collar. Take your time. I'm not shooting yet. You are.
Getting them moving
- Never "act natural". Give a task instead.Walk to me and tell him about the worst wedding you've ever been to.
- Never "now spin her once".Same again, and this time don't wait for me.
- Hands.Give your hands a job. Pocket, waist, his collar. Anything but hanging.
Getting a real face
- Wait for it. She said it herself: manufactured laughter is the thing she hates. If nothing is funny yet, stand around until something is.
- Straight face first.Straight face. Hold it. Now try not to laugh. That is the frame.
- Chins.Chin toward me and a little down. Feels weird, looks right.
When it gets stiff
- Move them, do not correct them.Swap sides. Now do the same thing.
- Squinting.Eyes shut. Open on three. That is the whole cure.
- Crowds.They'll clear. We'll do the close ones first and the wide ones when the rock's ours.
Closing
- When the light goes.That's the light done. Everything from here is a bonus, and it's the good bonus.
- Delivery.Phone versions tonight. The real ones in a week. Don't post the phone ones with a filter, they're already the filter.
If things change
Heat
Ninety-six at five and ninety-two when you finish, so the heat plan is on rather than held in reserve: two extra waters, the towel in a cooler with ice, and you stretch the gazebo roof and the canopy. It drops four across the two hours, so the shade does the cooling, not the clock.
Rain, cloud and wind
- The storms are this afternoon. Risk peaks at two and sits flat at 17% from five on, thunder at 10%. If one breaks, sit it out in the car. She has ruled out anything wet, so move the frame rather than tough it out.
- A quarter cloud, thinning to almost none by eight. No diffusion is coming. The low sun arrives hard and undiffused, which is what the four banks are set for. Do not wait for a soft one.
- Wind south-southwest at 8 to 10, gusting 12. The water will not be glass. Shoot the willow and the house as a backdrop, not as a mirror, and let the dress take the wind: she asked for movement and this is free movement.
Running late
- Behind at Lakeside. Cut the twirl at the steps, never anything across the water. Flippen is finished and gone by then, so everything you drop comes out of the middle.
Gear
- There is no second body. The prevention is the plan: two cards in BACKUP, a charged spare in the bag, and both lenses cleaned before you leave the house.
- If the 16-80 fails, the 27 shoots the rest of the day at f/2.8 and you lose the wides. Neither lens failing ends the day.
What was checked
Every number on this page came from somewhere. Where it did not, the row says so and the page hedges instead of asserting.
| Claim | Status | How |
|---|---|---|
| DR200 needs ISO 250, DR400 needs ISO 500 | Verified | X-T5 manual, IMAGE QUALITY SETTING: "[200%] is available at sensitivities of from ISO 250 to ISO 12800, [400%] at sensitivities of from ISO 500 to 12800" |
| AUTO1 stores base, maximum and minimum shutter separately | Verified | X-T5 manual, SHOOTING SETTING > ISO AUTO SETTING |
| How far back each shot stands | Computed | Frame size equals distance times sensor over focal length. X-T5 sensor 23.5 by 15.7mm, minimum focus 35cm on the 16-80 and 34cm on the 27, all three read off fujifilm-x.com on 10 September |
| Sun altitude and azimuth at both parks, every stop | Computed | NOAA solar position: solar noon within 4 seconds of the published 1:23:43 in Dallas |
| Highland Park permits photography only 7:30 am to 7:00 pm | Verified | Town of Highland Park Park Photography Policy, hptx.org. Sunset in Dallas is 7:39, after the curfew |
| Highland Park bans artificial lighting, props and backdrops | Verified | Town photography policy, quoted verbatim in the Lakeside block |
| Whether a tripod or a reflector is allowed at Highland Park | Open | The banned list names neither. Call Parks and Recreation on 214-521-4161. Until then the page assumes neither |
| The LED's colour temperature | Open | The panel has not been identified, so no Kelvin figure is printed. The method is written instead |
| Auto ISO minimum shutter tops out at 1/500 | To test | Carried from the earlier sheet and not re-checked. It only matters for the spin frames, where the shutter dial does the job anyway |
| Frames per card at 40MP RAW and FINE, both slots mirrored | To test | Shoot ten frames and read the counter. One park over two hours is well inside a single card |
| The evening forecast: temperature, humidity, cloud, wind and storm risk | Verified | AccuWeather hourly for University Park, the point that service resolves Highland Park 75205 to, about a mile and a half north of Lakeside. Pulled Friday 11 September at 1:00 pm. It puts sunset at 7:39, which matches the computed figure independently. RealFeel is a heat index, so it is not printed here |
| Which bank of the lake the willow and the house sit on | Scout | Not resolvable from aerials. Confirm standing there, before you place them |